Embroideries of India

 

Embroideries / embellishments are decorative details or features added to the fabric to make it more attractive. These can be done in combination with each other making the outfit look more substantial and beautiful. Embroidery in India includes dozens of embroidery stylez that vary by region and clothing styles. The dot and the other dot, the circle, the square, the triangle, and permutations and combinations of these constitute the design. 

Aari Work

Aari work involves a hook, plied from the top but fed by silk thread from below with the material spread out on a frame.

Banjara Embroidery 

Banjara is a mix of applique with mirror and beadwork. Banjara embroidery is traditional craft done by Lambada gypsy tribe of Andhra Pradesh. The embroidery is done with the use of cross stitch. Bright colored cloth panels are used as base fabric. This embroidery is also done by the Banjaras in the districts of Malwa and Nimar in Madhya Pradesh. These Banjaras has developed their own style of this work. Geometrical patterns and designs are mainly used with cross stitch. 

Banni or Heer Bharat 

Banni or heer bharat belongs to Gujrat state of India. It is done with silk floss and it is famous for its vibrancy & richness in colour pallets and design patterns, which include shisha (mirror) work.

Chamba Rumal

This is an embroidered handicraft that was once promoted under the patronage of the former rulers of Chamba kingdom. This embroidery flourished in the princely hill states of Kangra. Chamba, Basholi and other neighbouring provinces. It is a common item of gift during marriages with detailed patterns in bright and pleasing colour schemes.

Gota work/Gota Patti Work

Gota patti work is mainly practiced in Jaipur of Rajasthan. The work is used on borders of the fabrics. Edges of small zari ribbons are sewn to create elaborate patterns. Wide golden zari ribbons are used to create look of gold zari work on borders. Birds, animals and human figures are used as motifs for applique to be stitched on the base fabric. 

Chikenkari/Shadow Work

Chikankari is a traditional embroidery style from Lucknow, India. The word chikankari means embroidery. 

Chikan embroidery involves the use of white thread on white muslin (tenzeb), fine cotton (mulmul), or voile, beautiful almost sheer fabrics. Which showcases shadow work embroidery the best. The artisans usually create individual motifs or butis of animals and flowers such as rose, lotus, jasmine, creepers etc. The designs are first printed onto the fabric not with chalk, but with a mixture of glue and indigo. This work includes french knots and running stitch, another is the Khatao (also called as Khatava or Katava).

Kantha, Modern Nakshi Kantha

Kantha is a traditional embroidery of Bengal state of India. For this embroidery, traditionally, worn out clothes (sarees and dhotis) were plied together and stitched into quilts. The whole work is done with the use of running stitch. The stitch is used for borders as well as for filler areas. The motifs are derived from mythologies. 

Karchobi Work

Karchobi is a form of raised zari metallic thread embroidery practiced in Rajasthan state of India. It is raised zari metallic thread embroidery created by sewing flat stitches on cotton padding. This technique is commonly used for bridal and formal costumes as well as for velvet coverings, tent hangings, curtains and the coverings of animal carts and temple chariots.

Kathi Embroidery 

Kathi embroidery is done in Gujrat state of India. Kathi embroidery was introduced by 'Kathi' cattle breeders, who were wanderers. This technique combines chain stitch, applique work and mirror like insertion.

Kutch or Ahirbharat

The best known of the Kutch (Gujrat) embroidery technique is Ahirbharat, named after the hooked needle which forms the chain stitch. It is also known as Mochibharat, as it is used to be done by mochis (cobblers).

Kutchi Bharat/Sindhi Stitch

A variation of kutch work, this is geometric embroidery starts with a foundation framework of herringbone stitch or cretan stitch and then this framework is wholly filled with interlacing. It is said that this technique originated in the faraway land of Armenia and found its way to Gujrat by travelling Nomads. 

Kasuti or Kasuthi

Kasuti is a world famous embroidery of Karnataka state. Kasuti work is traditionally done by all along the border and red coloured 'tope-teri seragu', the elaborate pallu and body of the saree. The motifs used are ranged from mythological and architectural to the beautiful flora and fauna, apart from these flowers, birds, animal motifs are also used. Four types of specific stitches are used those are named as - Gavanti, Murgi, Negi and Menthi. These are the groups of specific stitches used together. All bright and contrast colours are used to make the design appear more bold and clear.

Kashmiri Kashida

It draws inspiration from nature, birds blossoms & flower creepers. The entire pattern is made with one or two embroidery stitches and mainly chain stitch on a base of silk, wool and cotton. The craftsmen use shades that blend with the background thread colours are inspired by local flowers.

Boy's frock kashmir 19th century : The stitches include Sozni (satin), Zalakdozi (chain) and Vatachikan (buttonhole). Other styles include dorukha in which the motif appears on both sides of the shawl with each team having a different colour. Jaama is a very dense embroidery covering the whole base fabric with a spread of vine/creepers and flowers, badaam and heart shapes. 

Phulkari

Phulkari (phul : flower, kari : work) is the most famous rural embroidery tradition of Punjab. It distinctive property is that the base is a dull hand spun or khadi cloth, with  bright coloured threads that cover it completely, leaving no gaps. It uses a darning stitch done from the wrong side of the fabric using darning needles, one thread at a time, going along stitch below to form the basic geometric pattern, with green as its primary colour.

Pichwai

Pichwai work is madw by the people of Rajasthan. 'Playful gifts and other Gopi Scenes,' 'pichwai' from Golconda, India, late 17th century, dyed cotton with polychrome and gold, Honolulu Academy of Arts. It is a colourfully embroidered cloth hangings made in Nathdwara, Rajasthan. The central theme focus on Lord Krishna.

Pipli work

Applique work or pipli work originates from the pipli village in Odisha and some parts of Gujrat. Designs include Hindu gods, human forms, animals, flowers and vehicles. Nowadays different home decor items can be found. 

Rabari Work

Rabari work is mainly practiced in Rajasthan and Gujrat. Mirrors of all shapes and sizes are incorporated in the embroidery, as a result belief that mirrors protect from evil spirits. Designs include not only flowers and fruit and animals such as parrots and elephants, but also temples, women carrying pots, and the mango shape.

Shisha or Mirrorwork

It involves little pieces of mirror in various sizes which are encased in the decoration of the fabric first by interlacing threads & then with buttonhole stitch. Originally, pieces of mica were used as the mirrors, but later, people started using thin blown-glass pieces.

Zardosi work

Zardozi is a Persian word means sewing with gold string. 'Zar' means gold and 'Dozi' means embroidery. It involves making beautiful designs such as leaves, flowers and such natural motifs using gold and silver wires.

Resham Embroidery 

This is a very popular and widely used machine embroidery done with colourful silk threads. It enhances the beauty of the cloth through its interesting sheen threads and precise stitches. Resham embroidery is also done by hand.

Cut dana work

The stones that are cut in different shapes and angles are sewn into the fabric using this thread. These stones are stitched into different patterns and designs using the embroidery work and thus giving the sparkling effect to the outfit. It makes attire heavy and glamorous due to its decorated polished stones.

Mukaish/Mukeish Work

Originated in the Lucknow city, this art uses the silver and gold threads that are twisted and flattened into the small metallic disk to create different pattern and motifs. The most common design is a dot. These metallic wires are placed into the fabric and thus giving luminous effect to the outfit.

Beedwork

Pearls can be found in various shapes, sizes and colors. The design is inspired by natural motifs, flowers, plants and geometrical shape. The moti work looks very classic and royal, and there outfits with pearl embroidery are favourite for wedding attire.

Sequence/stones/diamond work

This is the embroidery to give a touchup and enhance the embroidery work done on the fabric. They change the overall appearance of the outfits due to its shining quality. Sequence work can be done by both hand and machine.

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